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The map of Thailand’s must-visit foodie destinations is expanding, with more travellers skipping the well-trodden paths of Bangkok and Chiang Mai to discover something fresher, fierier and deeply authentic in Khon Kaen. One of four major cities in Thailand’s northeastern Isan region, Khon Kaen is quietly making a a name for itself in the country’s food scene, promising bold, herbaceous flavours and unrelenting spice.
Khon Kaen is one of the stops in our new exclusive Signature Series Thailand foodie tour, designed by MasterChef Australia alum Diana Chan and Khanh Ong. “If you’re into food and willing to venture off the beaten path, then Khon Kaen should definitely be on your hit list,” describes Diana.
It’s Thailand’s newest Michelin darling
Khon Kaen is proving it has just as much culinary prowess as Thailand’s other big cities, with the destination officially recognised in the 2023 Michelin Guide cementing its reputation as a rising star. Thirteen of the city’s restaurants have been awarded a Bib Gourmand, spotlighting local haunts with exceptionally good food and even better prices. In-the-know food lovers have been drawn to Baan Heng, a legendary souvenir shop-turned-family-run-restaurant serving a signature Thai Chinese breakfast – homemade sweet pork sausage, baked rice and Thai-style pan-fried eggs.
Alongside good value eats, fine dining is on the rise, with an increasing number of upscale restaurants expanding Khon Kaen’s food scene. Listed in the 2024 Michelin Guide, Kaen restaurant by Chef Paisarn Cheewinsiriwat presents an artfully plated tasting menu of contemporary Thai with a playful twist. Meanwhile, the rooftop Food by Fire embraces Isan’s tradition of open-flame cooking for a sophisticated yet rustic experience where premium meats and seafood are charred to perfection.
It’s got one of the coolest café cultures in Asia
While Bangkok has some excellent hipster coffee spots – Khon Kaen’s cafes rival the best in Asia. Take Godfather Coffee, where the beans are roasted in-house and the menu is a nod to the cinematic classic. Sip on a ‘Gangster Blend’ or go for an espresso shot over ice cream, the kind of brews even Don Corleone would approve of.
At Chef Paisarn Cheewinsiriwat’s Cocoon Coffee and Co, great coffee is considered more than just a companion, it’s fuel for productivity and thoughtful conversation. For beans with a side of serenity, Non Na Café trades city streets for rice paddies, serving fresh Thai fare and expertly brewed coffee alongside panoramic views of Thailand’s lush farmland.
Local specialties capture the brilliance of Thai cuisine
Isan cuisine is a bold, no-holds-barred expression of Thai cooking, and in Khon Kaen, it’s at its most authentic. “The food reflects a mix of Thai and Lao influences due to its geographical location,” said Diana. “The food here seemed very local and less commercialised.”
That authenticity shines through in dishes like larb, a fiery minced meat salad laced with fresh herbs and roasted rice powder, and som tum, the tangy, crunchy green papaya salad that defines the region’s palate.
“I got to try many dishes I had never even heard of before,” said Diana. For a taste of Eastern Thai cuisine, Chef Noi recreates her grandmother’s century-old Trat recipes at Krua Supanniga by Khunyai Somsie, a Michelin-listed restaurant set beneath the shade of Supanniga trees (a species native to Thailand) using fresh ingredients handpicked from the morning markets. Meanwhile, the Thai Chinese community has left its mark in places like Baan Heng, and even the humble brown sticky rice, a staple of the Isan table, is given star treatment in contemporary restaurants like Kaen.
The bar and live music culture is incredible
After dark, Khon Kaen’s laidback charm spills into its bars, night markets and oh-so-cool hangout spots. At the rooftop venue Kaenkaew Live House, you can listen to genre-pushing Thai music while taking in the view. For a night of tradition, the soulful melodies of Isan folk music played on age-old instruments can be enjoyed at Tawan Daeng. If cocktails are more your speed, hidden speakeasies like The Gentle serve masterfully crafted drinks in dimly lit, intimate spaces that feel worlds away.
The city has a variety of night markets like the Khon Kaen Night Market, where you can enjoy street food as you shop, while a good beer is never far away with places like Monsakod Craft Beer Bars offering a range of refreshing brews on tap.
It’s a city that embodies farm-to-fork
In Khon Kaen, farm-to-table isn’t just a trend – it’s a way of life. “I was also surprised with how agricultural it still is,” said Diana. “The region prides itself on fresh ingredients including herbs, vegetables and rice.” Thanks to its fertile plains, tropical micro seasons, agricultural abundance and biodiversity, Isan is a haven for fresh, hyper-local produce, making it a true epicentre of sustainable, farm-to-table dining.
Just outside the city, Mekin Farm stands as a true testament to sustainable living, where owner Pu-Chongrak has cultivated an oasis home to fruit trees, fragrant herbs, thriving vegetable patches and free-roaming ducks and chickens that contribute to its closed-loop ecosystem. Visitors can pick ingredients straight from the organic garden and prepare them alongside produce sourced from surrounding communities.
“The best thing I ate in Khon Kaen was at Mekin Farm,” said Diana. “We foraged for some flowers to make tempura. I had never had that many varieties of tempura flowers before. It was perfect, crispy and light!”
Meals come with a side of creativity
Kaen’s approach to hyper-local cuisine presents the story of Khon Kaen’s abundance through thoughtful plating and a kaleidoscope of colourful ingredients.
The art extends beyond the plate at Food by Fire, with local artwork like a hand-crafted tiger tapestry displayed prominently on its walls. Near Khon Kaen University at Columbo Craft Village, you’ll find stalls selling craft pieces nestled between hole-in-the-wall cafes and lunch spots. From creative twists on ancient recipes to conceptual eateries like Godfather Coffee, Khon Kaen’s eateries are as much about artistry as culinary mastery.
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Feature Image: Kaen, Khon Kaen.
