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Geelong has quietly shaken off its industrial past and turned into one of Victoria’s most interesting places to eat, drink and explore. There’s a constant buzz of new openings – cafés, bars, art spaces and makers popping up faster than you can say “flat white.” At the heart of it all sits Pakington Street – running from the leafy calm of Newtown up through the lively hum of Geelong West – lined with everything from brunch spots and bakeries to galleries and wine bars. You could easily spend an entire day here – and here’s how to do it.
Breakfast: The Birch Cafe
Start at the Newtown end of Pakington Street, at The Birch. This light-and-bright cafe is one of the street’s newcomers and has been quick to earn a loyal fanbase. The courtyard out back has play equipment for kids, and the tables inside are well spaced so you’re not elbow-to-elbow with strangers. Pooches are welcome, too.
The menu leans Asian fusion, pairing flavours of Thailand, Japan and Malaysia with breakfast and lunch favourites you already know. Think crispy chilli sambal eggs, beef rendang eggs Benedict and even a breakfast banh mi. Sweet tooths will hone in on the coconut French toast.
It’s the breakfast burger that catches my attention. It comes with a juicy chorizo patty and a rosti that’s more mashed potato than hash brown – and all the better for it. The yolk of the fried egg inside pops just how I like, running over the sides of the burger and staining the brioche bun a vivid orange. It’s a loaded burger but, happily, structural integrity isn’t compromised.
Our other order – mushrooms, sourdough, thyme and corn truffle – arrives in a generous pile, and the green detox juice (made to order) has just the right amount of ginger to wake you up.
Mid-Morning: Aysha Hansen Fine Fragrances
From The Birch it’s a short walk to Aysha Hansen Fine Fragrances, tucked inside the Boom creative precinct. Aysha Hansen runs small workshops where you design your own scent from scratch. The two-hour sessions are masterclasses in perfumery, with budding noses blending bespoke fragrances from a curated set of around 70 premium ingredients.
Aysha talks through top, middle and base notes with the patience of a scientist and the enthusiasm of someone who clearly loves her craft. Her ingredients are from the same supplier used by Chanel and Tom Ford, but what you make isn’t a replica of something you already wear – it’s genuinely your own scent. She guides you through every step like a scent sherpa, balancing each layer along the way. I have to downplay my preening when I’m complimented on my selections.
It’s immensely fun and unexpectedly absorbing, giving me a new appreciation for the world of fine fragrances. I’m floored to learn that my concoction is likely to contain more than 100 different ingredients. I leave with a bespoke bottle that smells of vanilla, cedar and rose – and the feeling I’ve just done something genuinely special. I spritz my fragrance every day the following week, waving my pulse point at anyone who unknowingly comments on how good I smell.
Lunch: The Retreat
By lunchtime, I’ve made it to The Retreat in Geelong West – one of the newer openings in the Hamilton Group’s growing stable of local restaurants. The building once housed a post office, and from the outside it looks fairly modest. Step inside, though, and it keeps unfolding: a front dining room, another tucked behind, and a leafy courtyard out the back.
We start with calamari in café de Paris butter and chorizo jam – tender, sweet and just smoky enough, the jam reminding me of a soft, spreadable nduja. When it arrives, the ‘Butcher’s Cut’ is a generous lamb rack, three perfect points atop a bright pea and herb purée, with fermented black garlic, confit onion and something called lamb snow – a new one for me, and one I’d happily have again. The thickest lamb jus I’ve ever seen is almost too rich, so I approach with caution. Our second main, the day’s market fish, comes as a crisp-skinned fillet served on what can only be described as a mountain of green peas, pancetta and smoked fish jus. It’s here I regret eating my baguette slice already; a second helping would have sopped up the jus perfectly. A side of confit carrots with pistachio and lavender honey turns up unannounced, which I take as a sign I’m in the right place.
The flavours are bold but balanced, the presentation polished without being fussy. I’m too full to contemplate dessert – a rare event for me. I eye off their just-launched breakfast service menu for future visits.
Afternoon: A stroll
A walk helps. Pako’s perfect for browsing – a mix of boutiques, bakeries and art spaces that feel more local than polished. Head to Boom Gallery to check out new artists, grab a pastry from Born & Bread Bakehouse, and make a mental note to come back for dinner at Baah Lah! next time you’re in town.
Dinner: Tulip
Once you’ve cut some laps to make room, Tulip is the perfect way to end your day. It’s been a fixture on Pakington Street since 2013, known for its clever share plates that blur the lines between Australian, Asian and European influences. The dining room is warm and low-lit, the kind of space that buzzes without being noisy, and owner Dan runs the floor like a ringmaster. His enthusiasm is infectious; he says there’s one menu item he refuses to take off – the prawn sando with fermented hot sauce and tarragon – because he eats one every single day. I can see why: it’s crunchy, sneakily spicy and exactly the kind of food that makes nod in appreciation mid-bite.
Everything here feels thoughtful. Thick slabs of Ket Baker sourdough arrive with cultured butter that’s just on the right side of salty. Chicken liver pâté is piped onto wafer-thin crisps and finished with a strip of candied orange – the sweetness cuts beautifully through the richness. Juicy scallops sit in pools of XO butter. Our main, a hanger steak with café de Paris butter, comes crowned with two unapologetic anchovies (don’t judge, we push them aside). Fries are dusted with nori and bonito seasoning, giving them an umami edge that makes them hard to stop eating, and the side salad’s dressed in a punchy green goddess concoction with shaved ricotta salata.
Dessert reminds me of something from a box of Cadbury Roses – a light chocolate ganache atop chocolate soil with a scoop of strawberry sorbet that tastes like summer. It’s the kind of meal that feels both polished and relaxed; refined but never pretentious.
Sleep it off: Bayside Geelong Hotel & Apartments
When you’ve finished your Pakington Street culinary odyssey, head to Bayside Geelong Hotel & Apartments. Another of Geelong’s newcomers, Bayside promises a peaceful retreat and place to rest when you’re simply too full to do anything else except fall onto your king bed. The Superior Studio Apartment has a bed facing a sleek wall-mounted TV; the bathroom gleams with jewel-green tiles, and a compact kitchenette is ideal for anyone planning to stay in Geelong for more than one night (as you should).
Downstairs, Franca’s Italian-leaning restaurant delivers the same polish: moody lighting, silky pasta, crisp pizza and gelato that wouldn’t feel out of place in Rome. Mornings can start on a high with a Contintental plate (flaky croissant, prosciutto, soft-boiled egg, fresh fruit) plate if you really are feeling la dolce vita, or opt for something more virtuous like a smoothie bowl. A decent gym and indoor swimming pool also lend themselves to health-conscious pursuits.
The location couldn’t be better, right opposite Griffin Gully Pier and within an easy 15-minute walk to The Pier Geelong and Eastern Beach. With the next stage of its refresh due in 2026, Bayside is one to watch – and one to stay.
