Where, What & When: An Insider Guide to Hong Kong

From hidden pirate haven to skyscraper-stacked metropolis, Hong Kong is a city that’s defined by boundless reinvention. Here, ancient teahouses rub shoulders with ultramodern coffee shops, open-air markets crowd beneath lofty designer malls and hiking forays lead into jungle-clad mountains.

Hong Kong dazzles with a legendary dining scene, dinner-to-dawn nightlife and spectacular vistas around every corner. A city unafraid to embrace its own sheer verticality, Hong Kong seduces with rooftop bars, island spanning ropeways and once-in-a-lifetime vantage points atop iconic summits. The city’s underground is just as vital: discover countless subterranean bars, crisscross tunnels and a Mass Transit Railway to rival any in the world.

Leave the city behind for tropical islands hiding saltpans, hippie communities and happy amusement parks, shop your way across historic Hollywood Road or catch a ding-ding tram to glamorous Happy Valley. Whatever you’re into, wherever you end up, Hong Kong’s here with creativity to spare.

Drinking and dining

Hong Kong Cuisine 1983, Happy Valley

Few places embody the spirit of Hong Kong’s East-meets-West gastronomy like Hong Kong Cuisine 1983. Executive chef Silas Li brings plenty of fire and French flair to the venerable Happy Valley institution, with a tasting menu ranging from remixed dim sum to fearless takes on Parisian classics, deftly balancing modern patisserie and old-world wok hei (the smoky goodness of a stir fry).

001, Central

After a brief shutdown, Hong Kong’s original hidden bar, 001, has triumphantly returned, this time concealed within the mazelike corridors of heritage-prison-turned-arts-hotspot Tai Kwun. The bar’s dimly lit speakeasy vibe belies a cocktail list that is a masterclass in reinvention – the bar’s Negroni Negroni (twin shots of different gins, bitters, vermouths) is an unapologetic delight.

Bar Leone, Central

Offbeat aperitivo hotspot, Bar Leone, skews more Melbourne than Hong Kong in spirit, with Roman bric-a-brac on every wall and Gregorian chants echoing through the backrooms. Italian-inspired cocktails like the smoked-olive martini is a “dirty” masterpiece, and an olive oil and honey-infused bourbon sour offers savoury-sweet revelation.

Hexa, Tsim Sha Tsui

Classic Hong Kong dining with a modern twist: Hexa dazzles with inspired takes on traditional Cantonese plates and phenomenal views over Victoria Harbour. With culinary showstoppers like pearl rice braised in XO sauce – topped extravagantly with truffle shavings and umami-rich sea urchin – there’s no better place to watch the world drift by.

Mora, Sheung Wan

Look behind Upper Lascar Row’s jade hawkers and porcelain dealers to discover one of Hong Kong’s most inventive dining concepts. Elevating soy to its rightful throne, Mora’s six-course degustation menu –
moving boldly from soymilk lobster bouillon to duck breast marinated in bean paste – earned it a Michelin Green Star for its contributions to sustainable cuisine.

DarkSide, Tsim Sha Tsui

Simone Rossi’s upscale cocktail parlour in the Rosewood Hotel isn’t afraid to embrace mixology’s darker arts, showcasing rare and barrel-aged cognacs, decadent Cuban toro cigars and house-made bean-to-bar
chocolate. Live jazz and a high-concept cocktail menu keep DarkSide fresh, with drinks like the Bright Side (tequila, mezcal, sesame, sherry and pepper grapefruit) playfully subverting expectations.

Hong Kong by season

The lively city promises action for travellers year-round: there’s never a bad time to say hello to Hong Kong.

Winter – December to February

As the temperature drops, Hong Kong gears up for a massive Chinese New Year, announced by extraordinary discounts across almost every mall in the city: if you’re in town to shop, there’s no better
season. In January, Central’s waterfront becomes home to the beloved AIA Carnival, packed with rides, roaming entertainment and delicious street food.

Spring – March to May

Spring can be unpredictable, with quick showers, warm evenings and the occasional clear, sunny day. This is Hong Kong’s festival season; each is steeped in folklore and well worth seeking out. At the beginning of April, joss paper is burnt and tombs are swept for Qinming Festival; later in the month is the birthday of Tin Hau, goddess of the sea, celebrated with street processions and elaborate lion dances. May brings maybe the best of all: Cheung Chau Bun Festival, dedicated to Pak Tei, the deity said to have driven the evil spirits out of Hong Kong, celebrated with an endless feast of sweet buns.

Summer – June to August

Hong Kong summers are hot, humid and thunderstorm prone. During this time close to 60 per cent of the city’s energy goes to air conditioning; the city becomes host to a dazzling array of world-class events, including annual mainstays Hong Kong Food Expo, Hong Kong Book Fair and the annual Chinese Opera Festival.

Autumn – September to November

As the skies clear and the temperature cools, Hong Kong’s natural beauty takes centre stage. For the best place to appreciate nature in all its glory, walk Tai Tong Organic EcoPark’s magnificent trails, just a 40-minute taxi ride from Tsim Sha Sui. For something closer to the city centre, a wander through Kowloon Walled City Park’s traditional gardens blends history and scenic beauty to profound effect.

Sleeping and relaxing

EAST Hong Kong

Modern elegance meets laidback local vibes in the heart of Taikoo Shing at EAST Hong Kong. Boasting plenty of city buzz, there’s always something going on: ascend to rooftop bar Sugar for cocktails, Hong Kong-inspired tapas and views overlooking the glittering Victoria Harbour.

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong pays homage to the city’s rich history by masterfully blending British flair and Asian influences. Take advantage of the hip Wan Chai locale: return to a tranquil heated swimming pool, serene Plateau Spa and sumptuous cuisine served across 12 venues.

Conrad Hong Kong

Surrounded by some of Hong Kong’s best shopping and dining, Conrad Hong Kong offers an ideal place to watch the city lights twinkle on the horizon. Indulge in fresh seafood and handmade dumplings at Golden Leaf or cosy up on a poolside cabana and take in the sunset with cocktail in hand.

The Sheung Wan by Ovolo

Flanked by incense-filled temples, quirky coffee houses and world-class bars, The Sheung Wan by Ovolo delivers on the Australian hotelier’s signature cool. If mezcal’s your love language and tequila makes you tingle, a visit to onsite taqueria Te Quiero Mucho is a must – the margaritas are among Hong Kong’s very best.

The Peninsula Hong Kong

It’s impossible to walk through Tsim Sha Tsui without gazing in wonder at the pearl-hued facade of the city’s last grand old hotel, The Peninsula Hong Kong. It’s a five-star stay beyond compare, with eight acclaimed restaurants – including the Michelin-starred Spring Moon – and the city’s most celebrated high tea.

Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel

Ideally positioned on Canton Road, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel offers the ideal introduction to Hong Kong’s inimitable spirit. Easy access to the Star Ferry terminal, unbeatable views over the harbour and premier luxury mall Harbour City and the iconic Symphony of Lights viewing platform are all just moments away.

BEST KNOWN FOR:

Dim sum

It’s a joy to dim sum (or yum cha in Australia) in Hong Kong, taking tea with friends and excitedly opening bamboo baskets like birthday gifts, eager to share the pillow-soft treasures within. A culinary tradition spanning more than a thousand years – records show dim sum was beloved as far back as 9th-century Song dynasty – it’s surprisingly approachable, with tables across the city to suit every budget. A pre shopping brunch outing in Mongkok at budget-friendly eateries like Dim Dim Sum and Tim Ho Wan is highly recommended. For a more upscale experience, a long lunch at celebrated Peking duck palace Duddell’s – matched with jasmine tea, champagne or mai tais – shouldn’t be be missed.

Action movies

Crouching tigers, hidden dragons, romantic tragedies and gunfights in the rain: from Bruce Lee to Wong Kar-Wai, Hong Kong’s film industry has captivated worldwide audiences for decades. Tsa Shim Tsui alone
is packed with iconic backdrops. Walk the Avenue of Stars, modelled on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, to see the city’s biggest stars immortalised via statues and handprints; cross the road to The Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong to relive moments from The Man with the Golden Gun. For a deep dive, Broadway Cinematheque in Yau Ma Tei houses the city’s biggest collection of industry-related books, posters and films; the store’s onsite cafe, Kubrick, brews coffee and tea with all the talent and care of the legendary director himself.

Shopping

With less taxes, more markets and a fixation on international luxury goods, Hong Kong’s reputation as one of the world’s best shopping cities is well-deserved. It’s a city obsessed with shopping malls – you could easily lose a whole week exploring ultra-trendy, art-themed K11 Musea, century-old luxe hotspot 1881 Heritage and New York-themed Times Square – but don’t sleep on the city’s street-level opportunities. Jordan’s Temple Street Night Market is the place to go for curried fish balls, fried pork buns, Ming-era antiques and watches of questionable authenticity; Mongkok’s Ladies Market for handbags, perfume, scarves and tea sets; Yau Ma Tei’s covered Jade Market for elaborately carved jade, pearls and jewellery.

Out and about

Admire city views from Victoria Peak

Whether you hike or take the historic Peak Tram, there’s no better view of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline than from 500m above it. As you ascend Hong Kong’s tallest hill, watch the buildings tilt at a curious angle in a mesmerising optical illusion.

Barter like a local at Hong Kong’s markets

Haggle your way through Hong Kong’s lively marketplaces, renowned for authentic street food, on-trend leather goods and unbeatable souvenirs. Find the perfect gift at the Ladies’ Market, spend an afternoon soaking up the incredible scents at the Flower Market, or watch Temple Street Market come alive after sunset.

See the city lights on a harbour cruise

No trip is complete without a ride on one of the city’s historic red-sail Chinese junk boats. This enduring symbol of Hong Kong – recognised since the Han dynasty – invites you to climb aboard and secure the best seats in town for the spectacular nightly Symphony of Lights show and witness the city illuminate in an eruption of striking neon.

Explore Hong Kong’s backyard

Dubbed the “back garden of Hong Kong”, you could easily spend a day exploring Sai Kung’s fishing villages, hiking trails, beaches and islands. When you’re ready to refuel, make your way to Seafood Street located on the waterfront and feast on freshly caught crabs, squid, shellfish, oysters, and more.

Ride the longest bi-cable ropeway in Asia

Add a healthy dose of adrenaline to your Hong Kong escape with a ride on Ngong Ping Cable Car. Climb aboard the glass-enclosed gondola and ride the 5.7km journey for panoramic views of sky, land and sea. At the top, explore the Ngong Ping village, connected to Lantau’s massive, gleaming Big Buddha.

Explore the city’s hottest new cultural precinct

Hong Kong’s going through something of an artistic renaissance of late, and Kowloon West Cultural District embodies a mammoth effort to embrace it. A vast expanse of green located just minutes from Tsim Sha Tsui’s bustling streets, both the brand-new Hong Kong Palace Museum and extraordinary M+ visual culture museum call the park home.

FAMILY AFFAIR:

Hong Kong is a city of curiosities

A dizzying concoction of old and new – beyond gleaming skyscrapers and sprawling shopping malls – make it one of the greatest urban playgrounds for travellers of all ages. The young and young-at-heart are guaranteed a fun-filled day full of unbridled joy at Hong Kong’s own Disneyland. Explore seven vibrant lands home to the magical kingdom, from Adventureland and Story Land, to Fantasyland, Tomorrowland and even Main Street, U.S.A. Meet all your beloved Disney characters, experience thrilling themed rides and relive your favourite classic stories. Be immersed in the live outdoor musical show set in front of the magnificent castle or stay for the night-time light show spectacular – a perfect end to a magical day.

Suitable for a range of fitness levels, nature explorations are plentiful on Hong Kong’s archipelago. Day trip around the fishing village of Tai O, marvel at the otherworldly scenery of Hong Kong’s UNESCO Global Geopark, or splash in the crystalline waters of Big Wave Bay. Take on mountainous ranges as you temple hop on Cheung Chau island or even take on the rewarding Shek O peak hike for peninsula panoramas.

Step into the heart of Hong Kong’s cultural celebration as vibrant lanterns light up the bustling streets for Lunar New Year. Revel in live music, joyous dragon and lion dancers, fireworks and an exciting night parade held at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, where a spectacle of dazzling floats and dynamic performances transform the city into a lively street party.

A ride on the city’s Central Mid-Levels Escalators is the best way to see the city views like a local, stretching over 800m making it the longest covered escalator in the world. Ride to the very top admiring gleaming skyscrapers, stopping to try local delicacies and world-class shopping, or marvel at the bright Chinese lanterns.

This article was originally featured in the third issue of Dream by Luxury Escapes magazine. Get your copy here.