While the Australian Outback has lain somewhat unchanged since The Ghan railway’s construction in 1929, the train’s culinary team thrives in the dynamic confines of their onboard kitchen. Months of planning and years of expertise are dedicated to the guest experience, no matter the challenges faced beyond those swinging doors.
We talk to Journey Beyond General Manager Food & Beverage Rail, Malcolm Bendrau, and The Ghan Chef, Chirag Oberoi. They reveal the effort required to create one of the most unique dining experiences in Australia.
Discover more about The Ghan on the new season of Luxury Escapes: The World’s Best Holidays, airing Thursday 8.30pm AEDT* on Foxtel Lifestyle and on demand on Binge.
Ensuring a smooth service
Ample storage is typically essential in kitchen design, but it’s just one of several limitations faced when delivering a fine-dining experience aboard The Ghan as it moves between Darwin and Adelaide.
Malcolm explains that equipment restrictions (no deep fryers, for example) and supply constraints are only just the beginning.
“You don’t have the luxury of your supplier delivering extra or the rest tomorrow,” says Malcolm.
“Plating can also be challenging especially when very precise or intricate. And lastly, not having the bench space and work area to create, garnish and manufacture. We manage and navigate this well and as any good chef will admit, you perform better under pressure.”
Chirag admires his team with a positive attitude towards working aboard The Ghan.
“Every journey brings something new. Yet, it is these challenges that make the experience so rewarding,” he says. “When those inevitable head-scratching moments arise, our manager, Malcolm, is always there with his guidance, experience and support to help us find solutions, stay focused and keep the kitchen rolling.”
Aboard The Ghan, no one can simply “pop out” for fresh ingredients mid-journey. Much of the 2979km journey is spent without phone reception, travelling hundreds of kilometres from the nearest town and even further from key suppliers.
Malcolm says planning schedules can range from two weeks to nine months in advance of each trip.
“Planning and forecasting is imperative to the success of all food and beverage on train,” he says. “Without intricate and exact planning, we will fall short.”
“Life happens and we may have supply issues, delays and disruptions but through everything we always find a solution, planning to ensure our guests are looked after no matter the challenges faced.”
Keeping menus fresh
The Ghan menus are designed to reflect the environment outside. As the train travels through the Red Centre, native ingredients such as karkalla and saltbush complement and contrast with Australia’s changing landscapes.
The scenery may remain the same between trips, but these menus change annually. Up to 90% of the menu may be subject to change between years, guided by seasonal successes.
“The region that you travel through and the produce that surrounds you on your journey will always find its way onto your plate,” says Malcolm. “I love working with native ingredients because they connect the food to the Australian landscape and give guests a taste of something they may not have experienced before.”
Chirag adds: “From native flavours and local ingredients to aromas that fill the carriage, every dish is part of the experience, leaving guests keen for the next bite.”
This variety depends on reliable suppliers who appreciate the quality of Australian ingredients. After delivery, a painstaking process ensures only the best ingredients come together to plan a menu for the year ahead.
“A menu starts with planning and design. Once this is achieved, we then approach our suppliers and get many different samples and products in to test and taste,” he says. “We then select the best of what we have and write up the final menu with the stories and regions of the products in mind.”
In a country like Australia – not globally recognised for its culinary influence – guests may be surprised by some of the ingredients Malcolm and Chirag enjoy working with. This works in the chefs’ favour, as a high bar is set for guests tasting certain flavours for the first time.
“The crocodile dumplings are probably the dish that feels most like me. They bring together a distinctly Australian ingredient with a familiar dumpling format, but with a few subtle touches that make it unique,” says Malcolm.
“After the first bite, I’d want the guest to notice the delicate texture and flavour of the crocodile, and hopefully be surprised by how beautifully a native Australian ingredient can work in a dish like this.”
Plating up for the Platinum Club
Each passenger aboard The Ghan enjoys similar views over the desert plains and National Parks. What differs between service levels is the quantity and calibre of dining.
Gold guests will be sufficiently blown away by the many carefully curated courses in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant, before snacks and good chats in the Outback Explorer Lounge, while Gold Premium guests have exclusive access to the Gold Premium Lounge and Restaurant.
For Platinum and Suite ticket holders with access to the Platinum Club, however, the very best in dining on The Ghan awaits.
“From high teas to certain wines and proteins, this [Platinum] section shares the regions and the journey of the train but will include certain elevated courses and occasions,” says Malcolm.
“The Platinum guests also get a five-course dinner where other sections may have three or four courses.”
Elevated dining options also extend to the beverage list, as Platinum passengers enjoy cocktails where Gold guests enjoy beer, wine, soft drinks and spirits in the Outback Explorer Lounge.
“In Platinum, we do offer an elevated wine and spirit list. For example, we have Bellevue Basket Pressed Shiraz, Hennessy Cognac and our favourite, Bollinger Champagne,” adds Malcolm.
With a glass of champagne and a plate of hand-selected produce, a meal aboard The Ghan is far more than fuel for the journey’s many off-board experiences. Dining on The Ghan is a journey in itself and forms a vital commentary on the scene beyond your dining car window.
The good, the bad and the tasty
A career in the kitchen comes with all sorts of stories and Malcolm takes immense pride in creating feel-good moments on board The Ghan – no matter the obstacles faced beyond the pass.
“One of the most memorable experiences for me was creating vegan caviar and vegan cream cheese for our guests,” he says.
“It was exciting to take ingredients that people traditionally associate with animal products and recreate them in a completely plant-based way, while still making them feel luxurious and special. Seeing guests enjoy them and sometimes being surprised that they were vegan was particularly rewarding.”
A willingness to try new flavours can certainly benefit the dining experience aboard The Ghan, but it’s clear that Malcolm and the team will go to great lengths to accommodate each guest – even when things don’t quite go to plan.
Travellers may not know something has gone wrong as they ride between meals and offboard excursions, such is the team’s ability to band together in times of trouble.
“One service, a staff member had fallen ill, and we were already short-staffed, which put us under a lot of pressure during a busy period,” explains Malcolm.
“Rather than letting it affect the guests, the team communicated quickly, reorganised the service and supported each other wherever needed. We managed to get everything back on track. It reminded me that in a kitchen, things will not always go according to plan, but good communication, teamwork and staying calm can make all the difference.”
Thankfully, when all is cooked and eaten, the team have their own skills to fall back on. In these moments, there may be no better menu recommendation than that eaten by the General Manager.
“After a long service, I usually reach for a really good chicken salad,” says Malcolm. “Something fresh, simple and well balanced, with plenty of flavour but nothing too heavy. I think it reflects how I actually like to cook and eat: good ingredients, clean flavours and food that doesn’t need to be complicated to be satisfying.”
Discover more about The Ghan on the new season of Luxury Escapes: The World’s Best Holidays, airing Thursday 8.30pm AEDT* on Foxtel Lifestyle and on demand on Binge.
Images: Supplied
