Traversing the Trans-Australian Railway across 4,352 kilometres and named after the two coasts it reaches, the Indian Pacific is one of the country’s most luxurious ways to travel: think sophisticated suites, sumptuous dining and endlessly time for relaxation. Starting in Perth, the 1,390 tonne train with 26 carriages travels across the Nullarbor, through the Flinders Ranges to the vineyards of the Barossa Valley, the sparse terrain of New South Wales’ Far West and ending in the towering eucalyptus trees and vivid green grass of the Blue Mountains.
Curious to know what it’s like travelling along the world’s longest straight stretch of railway? Here’s what I found.
Cabins are small but mighty
My Platinum Cabin onboard is stylish, open and incredibly functional. Two velvet green armchairs positioned in front of a large window give the ideal vantage point from which to soak up the passing scenery. Both convert to a plush single bed by staff while I am at dinner. The ensuite bathroom has all the comforts of home like a hairdryer, robe and Jurlique amenities. Even on the bumpiest parts of the journey, my cabin always felt still comfortable and cosy.
I’m surprised at the amount of storage in my humble cabin. Next to my armchairs is a small closet that fits both of my coats and day bag, and there is a smaller cupboard beneath for my shoes. Three small drawers nestled between armchairs double as a bedside table at night and there is a small safe for valuables. When I want to stretch out my legs, I reach for two pull-out footrests concealed by the coffee table. In the bathroom, there is a magnetised cupboard that doubles as a full-length mirror. Now this is a set up.
The dining onboard is out of this world
I had heard food onboard Journey Beyond trains was good, but I am blown away by how good it is. A team of six chefs, led by executive chef Joel Cousins, cook to the landscape the train travels through with a menu that changes every day – each dish pulls something from the region outside the window, including desert lime, beetroot, bush tomato and broccoli. The dishes I give five stars? Melt-in-my-mouth grilled Pacific Ocean swordfish with a fragrant green lemon myrtle curry sauce is a standout, as is a vegetable and chickpea galette with flaky pastry and a spiced, almost buttery filling served on crisp asparagus.
Afternoon tea is an event: pumpkin and lemon myrtle pasties, caramel slice and decadent carrot cake, accompanied by Bollinger champagne for Platinum Suite passengers of course. I also can’t forget about dessert: the opera cake with its paper-thin layers of sponge cake, and the bold orange citrus tart.
At the end of each carriage, there is a small compartment with complimentary tea and coffee that guests can access at any time, which I frequented multiple times each day to get my green tea fix. If you are after something a little stronger or more decadent, Indian Pacific staff are stationed in the lounges at all times of day, waiting in the wings to make you your favourite brew.
Explore towns with a heart of gold (or silver)
I am a sucker for the atmosphere and characters of a country town, and the Indian Pacific itinerary did not disappoint with its included tours and experiences. Kalgoorlie has the jaw-dropping Super Pitt, an enormous open-cut gold mine 600 metres deep. From the lookout at sunrise, I can still see trucks crisscrossing into the mine, heaving with energy despite the rest of town being asleep. I can also still hear the roar of machinery despite being so high up. I’m overwhelmed by the sheer size of the mine and in awe of the rhythm of the workers in full swing down below.
Broken Hill is home to silver miners, union movements and Shelita Buffet, the town’s premiere drag queen historian. This excursion takes our group first on a walking tour of the town to see filming locations from The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (more than 50% of the movie was shot here) and uncover the personality of Broken Hill, with a bit of drag bingo thrown in at the end.
Expect personalised service and VIP experiences
I am delighted by the service I receive onboard. On my journey, 180 guests are attended to by approximately 48 staff members, with four crew members dedicated solely to looking after guests in Platinum Suites. This meant my glass is never empty, my questions never go unanswered and my bed is turned down every night while I’m at dinner night choosing my itinerary for the next day. A nightcap of my choosing appears on the bedside table too. The attention to detail is just as much a part of the Indian Pacific experience as the engine or the wheels.
It continues off train too. Thanks to my Platinum Suite status, I am treated to an exclusive wine and food tasting at the renowned Seppeltsfield Wines in the Barossa Valley, hosted by executive chef Owen Andrews. We also sample a 100-year-old bottle of fortified tawny. In Cook, a tiny ghost town just over the South Australian border with a population of four people, the whole train is treated to a late-night bonfire with stargazing and a nightcap.
You’ll see how diverse Australia’s landscape truly is
If you took away the luxury finishes and experiences of the Indian Pacific, it would still be an exceptional journey for one reason – the scenery. From the comfort of your cabin, you watch the landscape metamorphise: from the sparse tufts of saltbush and bluebush that touch the horizon on the Nullarbor Plains to the soaring hills of the Flinders Rangers, to the desolate dryness of Broken Hill and the shamrock shades of the Blue Mountains. It was like watching slow TV in the best possible way.
With limited reception throughout the trip and Wi-Fi located in the lounge carts, this gives me ample opportunity to take in the incredible scenery unfolding before me. Having so much time to read, relax and stare out the window was my highlight of the trip.
It’s all about the journey not just the destination
What makes the Indian Pacific so magical is the fact that doing nothing really is the point. Whenever I return to my cabin after off-train excursions, I am in awe about how much time I have to do whatever I want. The ever-changing landscape outside provides the perfect backdrop for reading my book, listening to a podcast or taking an afternoon nap with the sunshine streaming in. Each day I feel a calmness and serenity that lasted long after I left the train.
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Feature image: Indian Pacific. Supplied. The writer was a guest of Journey Beyond.
