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The clue to the pull of this venerable luxury hotel is in the name. We don’t really call things “grand” much anymore but when this imposing accommodation opened in 1986 as simply the Hyatt on Collins it was the first international five-star hotel in Melbourne. The Grand Hyatt Melbourne deserves its monicker because it is grand in size, grand in ambition and because that word now has an old-world charm to it, much like the storied walls of this hotel.
The entrance to the hotel is guarded by Melbourne’s second best-loved birds (behind the nesting peregrine falcons). Artist Bruce Armstrong’s “Guardians” are massive white avian protectors cast in bronze but retaining the rustic chisel marks and ridges from the original moulds; one lobby is not enough for the Grand Hyatt with a split-level entry divided by ornate glass pillars and escalators.
What’s the neighbourhood like?
This is central CBD surrounded by a cluster of high-end retail on Collins Street. Across the road if you rise early enough you might be able to join a slightly shorter queue at Lune Croissanterie, you can swap grand for grit and check out a band at Cherry Bar just a few minutes’ walk away or keep the high-end vibes going with a drink at Apollo Inn or dinner or a legendary late-night cheeseburger at Gimlet.
Where am I sleeping?
I am sleeping in one half of a gargantuan Grand Suite with views across Flinders Street Station and the Yarra River (the morning sees teams of rowers carving their way through the water leaving trails like doodles on a piece of paper). The other half of the suite is a living space with a chaise longue along the window (great with a glass of wine and all the lights off at night), a curved six-to-eight seater couch, dining table and separate toilet. The whole thing is a mix of browns and beiges with pops of red throw pillows and offers a 180-degree city vista. The bathroom is a riot of marble with black-and-white portraits of the Yarra over the bath.
What’s on the menu?
No menu for me as I am partaking in the recently documented “resurgence of the buffet”. Fuelled by TikTok and the perceived value of all-you-can-eat options in a cost-of-living crunch, the Collins Kitchen’s evening buffet is having a moment. The room is packed as we are lead to a window booth overlooking the hotel’s “guardians” and for my first plate (course?) I delve into the legendary fresh seafood section. The bowls of water and lemon on the table are a hint that Queensland prawns come in the shell but there is also delicately sliced tuna, salmon and kingfish sashimi and nigiri. I stay in Asia with a second plate of black pepper chicken, wok-fried greens and dumplings. But feel free to travel the world including made-to-order pasta with sauces like veal and pork Bolognese and mushroom ragu. I can only squeeze in a petit bergamot yuzu cheesecake for dessert but other diners are not having this problem.
Cocktails channel the buffet fun with a negroni being torched tableside for a smoky infusion and a mai tai topped with a swirl of passionfruit foam that would make a Mr Whippy van blush.
How are the facilities?
My Grand Suite gives me access to the Grand Club Lounge on level 31 where you can have complimentary canapes and drinks from 6-8pm with incredible views of the sun backlighting the city’s skyscrapers; it’s not quite Melbhenge but could be the next best thing.
The City Club gym is massive and would put most subscription city joints to shame (you can join here if you are not a guest).
Who will love Grand Hyatt Melbourne?
People who think things should still be grand, buffet fiends and travellers who like their hotels with a bit of history and a dash of pomp.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.
