Away from Bali’s hustle and bustle, the neighbouring island of Lombok has all the natural beauty, island charms and tempting treats of its sister destination but all served chilled.
A familiar-sounding town lies on the south coast of the island of Lombok. But unlike its Bali namesake, Kuta in Lombok chooses to take life at a slower pace. Chic Mediterranean cafes with their leafy terraces may show flashes of the outside world encroaching, but they sit alongside warungs and tin-roofed surf shops who advertise their wares with driftwood signs.
While the north of the island may attract hikers willing to test their endurance by climbing Indonesia’s second-highest volcano Mount Rinjani or take a boat ride to the Gili islands, the shoreland around Kuta also deserves to be explored. For not only will you find quiet coves with beaches that stretch as far as the eye can see, but powdery sand in every shade from gold to black to pink and white. It also has its own selection of gilis that are dotted along the coast. And as Lombok lies on the Wallace Line (a deep underwater channel), it also features some of the most unique marine life.
It was more than enough to attract sisters, and now resort owners, Claire and Valia Gontard to make the move from Hong Kong to Kuta. The birthplace of their grandfather, they would visit the island as youngsters. “We first came as a family on surf trips and kept coming back because we loved it so much,” Claire said.
The city slicker couldn’t be more sure of making the move to the island. “Our kids are still very young and seeing them bike among water buffalos on fields by the ocean or coming home with sand between their toes is a very special feeling. There is so much freedom here.”
But instead of just buying a home, the first-time hoteliers took the more unusual step of opening a hotel near Kuta to give everyone else the chance to experience it, too. The sisters and avid surfers chose to buy a plot of land on a clifftop above a surf break and build a designer hideaway.
In December 2022 they opened the doors to Somewhere Lombok, a masterclass in quiet luxury. Whitewashed suites with cool stone walls are softened by handmade ceramics and plump cushions in your room and on your terrace.
The heart of the hotel is the deck where everyone gathers at dusk to sink into ivory-coloured beanbags for pre-dinner cocktails or take a seat around the oversized table and share food and stories family style. The chef will tempt you with dishes such as eggplant scallops and catch of the day with chilli butter dipping sauce, and he will also add dishes such as Lombok’s famed spicy Taliwang chicken to his specials board.
Somewhere Lombok is designed for the next generation of surfers. The ones who would rather start their morning with a drip coffee and finish their day with a soak in their private plunge pool. However, while you can turn a dial on your door from “gone surfing” to “snoozing,” if you never set foot on a surfboard, you will still feel at home.
But what Somewhere Lombok does offer you is the perfect excuse to go beach hopping. As well as Are Guling Beach which sits under the hotel, within just a short drive you’ll find the half-moon bay of Mawun Beach where you swim or learn to surf in the calm surf or Selong Belanak where you can laze on one of the loungers with a good book.
This doesn’t mean that the island isn’t short of culture. On a drive along the coast, you may find yourself stopping to look at a village festival that is in full flow. It’s not unusual to find families have gathered to celebrate their young sons gaining courage by taking part in a century’s old ceremony Nyunatang (circumcision ceremony). Boys will be held aloft on painted wooden horses as their sisters in golden headdresses also ride by their side to help give them the confidence to take the next step into adulthood.
If you drive to the east, you can meet Captain Suhardi who takes you to snorkelling sites not found on Google Maps. After fishing the waters for over 20 years, the freediving Sasak (Lombok local) can take you to technicolour coral gardens which clown fish, angel fish and black tip reef sharks call home. Suhardi and his fellow captains would at one time seek out sharks to help feed their families, now they only look for sharks to show visitors. After spending up to a month at sea and sometimes only arriving home with USD$50, Suhardi is more than happy with his new career choice. “Every day is my best day,” Suhardi said.
While some tourist boats will continue down the coast, Suhardi will drop anchor what appears to be a thoroughfare, but underneath it you will find clown fish darting around orange anemones, parrot fish gliding over the reef and antler-like staghorn coral tipped in neon blue.
Though when the sun is about to go down you should return to Kuta and follow the procession of locals on their scooters up the winding road of Merese Hill. They come here to see nature put on a spectacular show. Friends and families scramble up the hillside to find their spot on the clifftop and then sit down to see a pumpkin-coloured sun dip down behind a rolling surf that looks as if it’s been painted. And once the sun has gone down, the villagers will leave as if they have just watched a concert. It’s a sight that is fleeting, but it’s a memory that will stay with you forever.
Discover Lombok
This article was originally featured in the fifth issue of Dream by Luxury Escapes magazine. Get your copy of the latest issue here.