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The dazzling Côte d’Azur on the southern coast of France is a magnet for the glitterati, but look beyond the glossy beach clubs, palatial hotels and mega yachts, and you’ll find Mediterranean sensibility, medieval charm and an artistic soul.
From perfume-making to Old Town markets and must-try seafood, read on to discover the real Nice Côte d’Azur, glamour and all.
Nice Côte d’Azur, an all-seasons destination
While it may be known as the ultimate summer destination, Nice Côte d’Azur is blessed with more than 300 days of sunshine a year. Recognised by UNESCO as the ‘winter resort town of the Riviera’, it has a long tradition, from as far back as the 18th century, of attracting aristocracy from cooler climes in search of remedial Mediterranean warmth. Luxury fashion houses like CHANEL and Christian Dior today design their ‘cruise’ collections around these very soujorns. Its proximity to Paris, just a short flight away, and Monaco and Italy – reachable by train – just adds to Nice’s allure.
The winter months bring unique perks, with fewer crowds and mild temperatures making it easier than ever to explore the city’s 522 hectares of historic architecture, quaint streets and scenic coastline. Nice Carnival, held every February with its flower parades and ornate floats, is a colourful spectacle dating back to the 13th century, while the Christmas markets in December see wooden chalets and palm trees twinkle with fairy lights. Nice Côte d’Azur also a great base for alpine ski adventures, with the resorts of Isola 2000, Auron and La Colmiane each around a two-hour drive away.
Refined Riviera hospitality
Fittingly for a destination that has hosted nobility for centuries, Nice Côte d’Azur is awash with world-class five-star hotels; from heritage icons to contemporary stays, the level of service is unmatched. You’ll also find a deeply embedded spa culture here, in keeping with its past as a therapeutic seaside sanctuary.
For the ultimate experience, opt for one of the properties in the Luxury Hotels Collection Nice Côte d’Azur, each handpicked for their unsurpassable location and luxury. Through its hundred-year history, the legendary Hotel Le Negresco, resplendent under its pink dome and glittering chandeliers on the waterside Promenade des Anglais, has been a beacon for well-heeled travellers such as Brigitte Bardot, Frank Sinatra and Queen Elizabeth II. Anantara Plaza Nice delivers wow-factor with its palatial Belle-Epoque-style facade and Côte d’Azur views, as the does Boscolo Nice Hotel & Spa, where the vistas are best admired from the rooftop pool. For more understated luxury, look to Maison Albar – Le Victoria, close to the Old Town and the seafront, with its rooftop bar, 650sqm spa and sea-view infinity pool.
Also in the Luxury Hotels Collection Nice Côte d’Azur collection is Hôtel du Couvent, set in the Old Town in a 17th-century convent.
Where heritage meets the horizon
Aside from a favourable climate, Nice Côte d’Azur’s unique appeal lies in its inimitable medieval charm, which spills right up to the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Its heritage as a playground for royalty is evident in its grand architecture; the 19th-century Opéra de Nice and Belle-Epoque-style Musée Masséna are spectacular remnants of this golden age, as is the Promenade des Anglais seaside promenade. The winding medieval streets of Nice’s Old Town are home to Baroque churches, boutiques, restaurants tinkling with live music and markets proffering flowers and fresh fish. Admire it all from Castle Hill (Colline du Château); between the Old Town and the port, this one-time military citadel offers sweeping views across the bay and township.
Matisse produced much of his work in this city, with many pieces on display at the Musée Matisse de Nice, set in a 17th-century villa. The Musée National Marc Chagall offers a glimpse into the life and inspiration of one of the 20th century’s most prominent modernist artists, while contemporary galleries showcase emerging talent.
It’s a culinary crossroads
Niçoise cuisine is an amalgamation of French finesse and Mediterranean values, with a dollop of inspiration from nearby Italy. From Michelin-starred fine dining to casual bistros, the emphasis is always on fresh, seasonal and sun-kissed produce. Try its famous dishes; there’s leafy salade niçoise with olives, anchovies and eggs, its sourdough sandwich counterpart the pan bagnat, and a crispy chickpea pancake called socca, best eaten at Chez Pipo or Chez Thérésa. A glass of wine or a coffee beneath a striped awning on the sidewalk is an essential ritual, as is a seafood dinner (Café de Turin has been the go-to since 1908 for oysters and platters). In the Old Port district, the Michelin-starred JAN has garnered international acclaim for its French-meets-South-African flavours, with all of its produce sourced within 500km of the restaurant.
A mix of luxury and local experiences
Nice Côte d’Azur offers gloss juxtaposed with authenticity; the best stays combine elements of both. Embrace the Riviera glamour on an open-top vintage car tour, the wind in your hair as whip along the palm-fringed coastline, or charter a luxury yacht from the port for a privileged view back over the historic municipality. The hills above Nice are dotted with vineyards like Château de Bellet where you can enjoy wine tastings; arrange a private tour or pack a basket of crusty bread, artisanal cheeses and juicy Mediterranean tomatoes for a gourmet picnic.
Seaside Èze, a 20-minute drive from the city, is home to the factory of the famous fragrance producer Fragonard, whose workshops are an introduction to the fine art of scent production. Similarly fragrant is the Marché aux Fleurs flower market at Cours Saleya, which also sells jewel-like fruits and vegetables, daily from Tuesday to Sunday (visit Monday for the antique market).
Plentiful opportunities to shop, stroll & soak it all in
Whether your modus operandi is to people-watch and window-shop, or fill a suitcase with one-of-a-kind finds, you’ll fulfil your shopping fantasy on Nice’ palm-lined shopping promenades. The brand mix is a blend of international names and Riviera style; head to Avenue Jean Médecin for everything from high street favourites like Zara (it’s at its best in Europe) to Galeries Lafayette, or Rue Paradis or the Carré d’Or for ultra luxury (Hermès and Louis Vuitton). There are local gems to be found too, at artisanal perfume boutiques like Maison Alef and Parfum et Vous, and markets selling regional delicacies and vintage treasures.
