Luxury Escapes Guide to Marlborough

Shellfish are universally excellent throughout New Zealand, but Greenshell Mussels straight from the Marlborough Sounds are one of the country’s culinary treasures. What better place to try them than at this humble tasting room attached to one of the Sounds’ main mussel farmers, right by the dock in Havelock? They’re served here in myriad ways – raw with fresh lemon, grilled with garlic butter, beer battered, Kilpatrick, in a Dutch croquette, in a chowder – but if you’re finding it hard to choose, opt for the mixed plate accompanied by Asian slaw and crusty bread.

This popular Picton bar ticks all the boxes you’d want in an Irish establishment: Guinness on tap, regular live music and a publican with an accent as broad as Cook Strait. Dark wood and leather booths create a cosy, convivial atmosphere. If it’s a hearty traditional pub meal you’re after, Seumus has that covered, too, churning out the likes of bangers and mash, burgers, Guinness hot pots, beer-battered fish and chips, and a sizeable Sunday roast. Being Marlborough, there’s also Thai-style Greenshell Mussels and seafood chowder on offer.

Marlborough’s highest-rated restaurant is tucked away in the heart of the wine district, 8km west of Blenheim. This is degustation dining at its finest, showcasing the best of Marlborough produce: Greenshell Mussels, wild venison, slow-roasted lamb, goat’s curd, and all kinds of seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, berries and fruits. Opt for the six-course ‘Eat Local’ menu or dive into ‘The Many’, an indulgent nine-course feast. Unlike most of the vineyard restaurants, Arbour is only open in the evening.

Punctuate a busy day’s wine tasting with lunch at this lovely winery restaurant. If it’s sunny, grab a table on the terrace of the mudbrick building, and gaze out over the vines. Of course there’s a Marlborough mussel chowder on offer, sitting alongside the likes of double-baked blue-cheese soufflé, lamb burger and aromatic soy-braised short ribs. The wine is excellent, too. Get in early for a tasting so that you know what to order with lunch.

The clue is in the name. Kiwi bakery staples (sausage rolls, meat pies, filled rolls, iced slices, sticky buns, scones, muffins) sit alongside Dutch treats on the well-stocked counter of this Picton institution. The immigrant owners started out selling their goodies at the local farmers’ market before gravitating to this site in 2001. It’s now an essential stop for homesick Northern Europeans wanting to stock up on good-quality bread or Christmas stollen on their way to or from the interisland ferry.

Brazil comes to Blenheim in the form of this sexy restaurant at the eastern end of the main strip. Start with a Marlborough wine or, better still, a caipirinha – accompanied by Brazilian snacks such as cassava cakes, pão de queijo (cheese bread) and escondidinho (similar to a shepherd’s pie). Then move on to a substantial serve of feijoada (black bean and pork stew), alpine Merino assado (barbecue) or moqueca (fish stew), before capping it off with a pudim (similar to a crème caramel).

An island of beer in a sea of wine, Moa is Marlborough’s best-known brewery. It’s been producing craft beers and ciders since 2003, and its brews are now available throughout the country. Moa’s tasting room and beer garden is a great place to hang out in summer (sadly, it closes in winter). Order a beer flight and some snacks from the food truck and make an afternoon of it. Beer aficionados should make a point of trying the sour beers and Southern Alps White IPA, the latter of which took out the national trophy in 2018.

This cosy Blenheim wine bar serves arguably the most inventive food in the entire Marlborough District. Dishes are designed to be shared and range from light snacks, such as moreish anchovy and rosemary crackers, to a filling lamb shoulder with oyster glaze. However, the menu changes regularly, so expect to be surprised. There are always plenty of vegetarian options, too. Wash it all down with a Marlborough wine or a local craft beer from the tap – there’s always a great selection of both.

One of the most memorable scenes in Sir Peter Jackson’s The Hobbit film trilogy featured Bilbo Baggins and his mates bobbing along a river in wine barrels. This private guided paddle takes you along the crystalline Pelorus River to the spot where it was shot and includes a gourmet picnic on the riverbank. It also features a bush walk to secluded pools, complete with lots of interesting information on native flora and fauna.

If you’d rather someone else took care of all the logistics so that you can concentrate on the adventure, this crew offers a baffling array of alternatives for exploring Queen Charlotte Sound by mountain bike, kayak or on foot. The most luxurious option includes a four-day stay at the remote five-star Bay of Many Coves resort. From here you’ll be whisked by boat to various points along the Queen Charlotte Track for your day’s exertions before being returned to the resort for a soak in the cedar hot tub or a treatment at the spa centre.

If you’re limited on time and want to cram the best that Marlborough has to offer into a single day, this guided tour is a good option. It all starts in Picton, with a cruise along Queen Charlotte Sound to Meretoto. Its English name, Ship Cove, refers to the fact that it was a favoured harbour for James Cook, who anchored HMS Endeavour here six times. After you’ve had a chance to look around, your catamaran will return you to Picton where you’ll be whisked to a winery for lunch followed by an afternoon of wine tasting.

Immerse yourself in Marlborough with Luxury Escapes’ hand-picked Experiences. We’ve curated a selection of cultural activities, adrenaline thrills, food adventures and luxury add-ons to help you discover your destination. These Experiences are bookable when you purchase your next escape. Simply select your travel dates and number of travellers for any package, and opt to tailor your escape by selecting the available Experiences.