As the sun drops behind Purnama Beach, The Royal Purnama lights the grills for Smoke Under the Stars — an open-air BBQ dinner for two at this Bali retreat. The Korean and Asian-inspired menu travels from marinated lamb chops, bulgogi beef and spiced chicken through to fresh prawns and squid, alongside grilled mushrooms and vegetables, potato salad, jacket potato and mixed greens. Condiments, dessert and a live acoustic performance complete the evening. With just ten sittings available each night, the atmosphere stays genuinely intimate — a relaxed, unhurried way to spend a Balinese evening.