{"id":42897,"date":"2025-11-07T11:54:17","date_gmt":"2025-11-07T00:54:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/?p=42897"},"modified":"2025-11-07T11:54:19","modified_gmt":"2025-11-07T00:54:19","slug":"fights-flights-a-journey-through-malta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/fights-flights-a-journey-through-malta\/","title":{"rendered":"Fights & Flights: A Journey Through Malta"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Uncover Malta’s compelling history of warrior monks and Grand Masters of the Order of Malta, and its softer side of delicate wines, passionate local chefs and historic harbourside bars<\/em><\/strong>. Paul Chai discovers this southern European marvel.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Everywhere you drive in Malta<\/a>, the road is lined with prickly pears, bulbous spiky cacti that look like a warning. The Maltese harvest them and turn these thorny flora into bajtra<\/em>, a bitter-sweet liqueur served over ice or drizzled on ice cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like the process of turning cacti into cocktails, Malta has a hard-won beauty. This is a country forged by the swords of the Knights Hospitaller \u2013 monks turned warriors \u2013 who defeated an Ottoman invasion in the 16th century. This small country, enviably placed just below Sicily in the Mediterranean, has seen off pirates, pillagers, conquerors and colonisers to emerge as one of the most interesting destinations<\/a> in Europe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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View of Valletta, Malta old town skyline from Sliema city on the other side of Marsans harbor during sunrise<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the capital of Valletta, you\u2019ll find battle-scarred sandstone buildings, extravagant fortifications and the grandiose St John\u2019s Co-Cathedral, where you walk upon marble-carved skeletons and skulls \u2014 memento mori of a life warding off seaborne threats. But within the city\u2019s daunting walls lie secret gardens, ornate statues and hidden stairways where locals play cards and chat over a glass of Kinnie, the local soft drink. Come summer, each village erupts with a \u201cfeast\u201d \u2014 a lively calendar of religious street parties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Everywhere you look, the country has turned its prickly pears into sweet nectar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bajtra and the Maltese Falcon<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

I get my first taste of bajtra<\/em> as part of The Maltese Falcon \u2014 the national cocktail of Malta \u2014 created by James Aquilina at The Confession, a bar and restaurant in Rabat. James serves his patriotic concoction of vodka, bajtra, prickly pear syrup, orange juice and Kinnie in ready-to-walk plastic cups from his hole-in-the-wall diner with a carved sandstone angel above the doorway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s the perfect end to a walking tour of Mdina, a fortified city in the west of the island, where you cross a raised bridge through what was once a heavily armed gate. Now, the biggest danger is being run over by one of the horse-and-cart tours that ply their trade around this living museum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mdina is the old capital of Malta but now home to just a few hundred people \u2014 descendants of once-dominant northern families hidden behind imposing doors with large carved knockers. It\u2019s also home to the \u201clast nun of Mdina,\u201d and as we pass the monastery, we\u2019re told there\u2019s just a single member left, now recruiting globally to keep the Mdina order alive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The creamy-white Globigerina limestone gives the streets a golden glow under the Mediterranean sun. We stroll past dungeons, the museum of natural history, and statues of St Paul \u2014 the patron saint of Malta, who the Bible says was shipwrecked here. Consequently, on this trip I\u2019ve never met so many Pauls since primary school in the 1970s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pastizzi and Local Flavours<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Beyond the city walls in Rabat, we dine at Is-Serkin, or the Crystal Palace Tea and Coffee Bar \u2014 a pastizzerija<\/em> serving Malta\u2019s famous baked goods. Scoring a rare table among the chaos \u2014 Is-Serkin is open permanently and packed often \u2014 we devour pea, ricotta and anchovy pastizzi, wrapped in fabulously flaky pastry. The crumbs fall freely around us, a sight dotted across the island that I come to think of as \u201cMaltese snow.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Prickly<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Everywhere you drive in Malta, the road is lined with prickly pears \u2014 bulbous spiky cacti that look like a warning. The Maltese harvest them and turn the thorny flora into bajtra, a bittersweet liqueur served over ice or drizzled on ice cream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where to Stay<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Westin Dragonara Resort<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Located on its own peninsula and surrounded by the waves of the Mediterranean, this big, family-friendly resort has 413 rooms and is just a short walk from the bustling restaurants and nightlife of St. Julians. You can also stroll along the coast to the nearby superyacht harbour and shopping mall.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Gozo Malta<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

It feels like it\u2019s constantly sunny at the Kempinski<\/a> in Gozo thanks to the yellow sandstone throughout the property and reflected in the bright tones of the common areas. Fine diner L-Istorja offers a traditional steakhouse menu, while Il-Baldakkin is a great place to soak up the sun while dining on the terrace.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Blast from the Pastizzi<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Arriving at Ta\u2019 Betta Winery for lunch in the Siggiewi region, owned by Astrid and Juanito Cammilleri, the first thing you notice is how far apart the vines are planted. This is deliberate \u2014 designed to combat the Maltese heat and allow cool mistral winds to circulate between the rows.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Cammilleris originally purchased the rustic farmhouse in 2002 as a family home, but a Sicilian winemaker convinced them the land had a \u201cnatural gift\u201d for wine. He was right \u2014 the winery now produces stunning vintages from the hot, rocky terrain. Maltese wine is exceptional and made in such small quantities there\u2019s none left for export \u2014 to taste it, you must come here yourself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We\u2019re led to a grove of olive trees for a tasting of Ta\u2019 Betta\u2019s wines, named for the Grand Masters of the Order of Malta. The chardonnay, named for Jean Parisot de Valette \u2014 the 49th Grand Master who defeated the Ottomans \u2014 has notes of pineapple and a fabulous salinity. The robust red blend of syrah and cabernet franc, named for Phillipe Villiers, honours his strength and boldness with its own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dining Highlights<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

From crusty handheld delights to Michelin-recommended restaurants, Malta\u2019s cuisine is a treat. At Root 81, chef Robert Cassar cooks and attends to tables himself at this intimate diner on a hilly stairway in Rabat. The name comes from the historic 81 bus route linking this hilltop spot to Valletta, and the menu features creative spins such as grouper lasagne and black cuttlefish risotto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chef Robert\u2019s annual signature cocktails include the 2024 \u201cRoyal Dirty Martini\u201d \u2014 gin infused with thyme, Kalamata olives and a hint of Benedictine. It tastes like the view from Root 81: Mediterranean herbs, trees, and prickly pears alongside monasteries and churches cascading into the Verdala Valley below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Valletta, I sip a gin and tonic with fresh thyme at Tico-Tico Bar, down more pastizzi, and wander through street markets stacked with crates of local produce and bottles of Cisk lager. Though out of season for the famous village feasts, it\u2019s easy to imagine that everyone eats well here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good to Gozo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The lights of moored boats twinkle in the squid-ink-black Mgarr Harbour in Gozo \u2014 and so does the eye of my bartender as he hands me a local negroni with a dash of Kinnie. Gleneagles Bar, perched above the harbour with a balcony and a huge marlin over its door, has been run by brothers Tommy and Sammy for 50 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The bar\u2019s walls are hung with fishing nets, crustaceans and black-and-white photos \u2014 Gleneagles standing sentry through time, first built in 1732 by the Knights of St John as a barracks. After a few \u201ckinniegronis,\u201d the brothers show us more photos before we part ways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My night at Gleneagles caps off a few days exploring Gozo, Malta\u2019s more chilled island sibling. The Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz Gozo Malta is my base \u2014 a warm sandstone hideaway arranged around a huge palm-fringed pool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Gozitans refer to Malta as \u201cthe mainland\u201d despite being just 20 minutes away by ferry. The pace here is noticeably more languid. A walking tour of the Cittadella \u2014 Gozo\u2019s ancient walled city \u2014 is quiet and full of artisans selling handwoven bracelets and Maltese bizilla<\/em> (lace). San Lawrenz Harbour, with its rainbow-painted boathouse doors, offers boat hire through rocky archways and azure seas, far from the crowds of the Blue Grotto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the nearly empty Xwenji salt pans, carved into the coastal rock like a giant chequerboard, we pause before lunch at L\u2019Aragosta \u2014 a seaside restaurant in Zebbug marina. At a gingham-clothed table, we order calamari simply grilled with Xwenji salt and cold local chardonnay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the way back to the Kempinski, we stop at Ta\u2019Dbiegi crafts village in Gharb, where I find a stall selling bottles of bajtra<\/em>. Though I\u2019m not usually one for souvenirs, I grab one \u2014 a reminder that in Malta, a country proudly defined by its battles, beauty is everywhere, even in the spiky roadside weeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This\u00a0feature was originally published in Issue 10 of Dream by Luxury Escapes.<\/em><\/em><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Uncover Malta’s compelling history of warrior monks and Grand Masters of the Order of Malta, and its softer side of delicate wines, passionate local chefs and historic harbourside bars. Paul Chai discovers this southern European marvel. Everywhere you drive in Malta, the road is lined with prickly pears, bulbous spiky cacti that look like a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":52,"featured_media":43329,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[55,373,75],"tags":[21,7,50,293],"location":[],"customertype":[],"class_list":["post-42897","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-europe","category-dream-magazine","category-malta","tag-arts-culture","tag-food-wine","tag-nature-experiences","tag-print-magazine"],"acf":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Aerial-view-of-Valletta.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"lux_id":42897,"lux_link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/fights-flights-a-journey-through-malta\/","lux_title":"Fights & Flights: A Journey Through Malta","lux_excerpt":"Uncover Malta\u2019s compelling history of warrior monks and Grand Masters of the Order of Malta, and its softer side of delicate wines, passionate local chefs and historic harbourside bars. Paul Chai discovers this southern European marvel. Everywhere you drive in Malta, the road is lined with prickly pears, bulbous spiky cacti that look like a [\u2026]","lux_excerpt_trimmed":"Uncover Malta\u2019s compelling history of warrior monks and Grand Masters of the Order of Malta, and its softer side of delicate wines, passionate local chefs and historic harbourside bars. Paul","lux_image_url":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Aerial-view-of-Valletta.jpg","lux_image_url_medium":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Aerial-view-of-Valletta-350x197.jpg","lux_image_url_large":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Aerial-view-of-Valletta-1024x575.jpg","lux_image_url_square":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Aerial-view-of-Valletta-500x500.jpg","lux_categories":[{"label":"Europe","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/destinations\/europe\/"},{"label":"Dream Magazine","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/dream-magazine\/"},{"label":"Malta","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/destinations\/europe\/malta\/"}],"lux_tags":[{"label":"Arts & Culture","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/tag\/arts-culture\/"},{"label":"Food & Wine","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/tag\/food-wine\/"},{"label":"Nature Experiences","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/tag\/nature-experiences\/"},{"label":"Print magazine","link":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/tag\/print-magazine\/"}],"lux_locations":[],"lux_customer_types":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42897","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/52"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=42897"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42897\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":43345,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/42897\/revisions\/43345"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/43329"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=42897"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=42897"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=42897"},{"taxonomy":"location","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/location?post=42897"},{"taxonomy":"customertype","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/luxuryescapes.com\/inspiration\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/customertype?post=42897"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}