Luxury Escapes Guide to the Bay of Islands

A short walk from the waterfront in historic Russell, Kiwi-Argentinean chocolatier Leonora Marzullo crafts artisan treats from local ingredients and sustainable fair-trade cocoa. Sophisticated flavours include fig and orange, Guinness and cranberry, and the perennially popular caramel and sea salt. Everything is made onsite, and it’s also a top spot for hot chocolate during cooler months and refreshing frappes during summer. Selection boxes of up to 18 chocolates make a good gift for friends and family. Good luck not devouring them before you get home.

Kerikeri’s sub-tropical climate makes it easier for local farmers and orchardists to grow herbs, fruits and vegetables from warmer countries, and occasional surprises like starfruit feature on Māha’s East meets West fusion menu. Popular dishes include a Thai-style warm salad of squid and spicy Isaan sausage, and grilled fish with a citrus and forest herbs risotto. The restaurant is framed by the lush vegetation of the Wharepuke Subtropical Gardens, and it’s also possible to visit the adjacent Wharepuke Print Studio featuring work from New Zealand, Australia, Vietnam, Europe and the US.

In a courtyard off Kerikeri’s main street, longstanding Cafe Jerusalem is a real surprise in this quiet Bay of Islands town. Opened by Asher Danin when he moved to New Zealand from Israel in 1999, two decades later it’s still one of the country’s best places for Middle Eastern food. Creamy dips are piled onto warm pita bread, meze platters are ideal for sharing, and the shakshuka (baked eggs in spicy tomato sauce) is perfect for either a late breakfast or an early lunch. Israeli beer and wine are sometimes available.

Located adjacent to the historic precinct around Kerikeri Basin, the Plough & Feather enlivens a gracious colonial homestead with the easy-going vibe of a British pub. Culinary classics with a twist include seafood chowder with local mussels, free-range pork belly with kumara (sweet potato) mash, and good old fish and chips. The drinks list features Northland wines and local craft beer from Kainui Brewing. Kainui’s Belgian-style saison farmhouse ales are highly regarded by New Zealand beer fans. Call ahead to book a table on the expansive wraparound veranda.

With expansive windows on three sides, Charlotte’s Kitchen is the Bay of Islands’ most spectacular dining destination. A combination of bar and bistro dining, highlights of the menu include whole flounder with southeast Asian herbs, wood-fired pizza, and squid ink pasta. Views extend across the bay to Russell, and it’s a good place for afternoon drinks and shared plates of steamed bao buns or pork and prawn dumplings. The eponymous Charlotte Badger was an English convict who helped pirate a transport ship off the coast of Australia and crossed the Tasman Sea to become New Zealand’s first female settler in 1806.

South American flavours come to the Bay of Islands at this relaxed café in Paihia. The best coffee in town partners with brunch options including breakfast burritos crammed with chorizo, bacon and egg, while the huevos rancheros scrambled eggs are served with a punchy jalapeno-laced salsa. Tacos and quesadillas are recommended for a quick lunch, and fruit smoothies are refreshing during a Kiwi summer. For an on-the-go snack, order the Cuban pork sandwich and adjourn to the nearby beach.

The venerable ‘Duke’ is one of New Zealand’s oldest pubs, with a sign above the door proclaiming ‘refreshing rascals and reprobates since 1827’. Now the clientele is more likely to be travellers and tourists than sailors and whalers, and the eating and drinking menus are definitely more sophisticated. Secure a spot with ocean views on the outside deck and partner local oysters with a Marsden Estate chardonnay from Kerikeri, or order the slow-roasted Northland lamb and a peppery syrah (shiraz) from nearby Omata Estate.

One street back from Russell’s waterfront esplanade, this courtyard restaurant teams wood-fired pizza with local wines and New Zealand craft beers. Beers from top Northland breweries including McCleod’s and Bay of Islands Brewing go well with 12 different pizzas. Try the big flavours of the hoppy Great Migration IPA with the mushroom and blue cheese pizza. Fish tacos, salt and pepper squid and local oysters from Orongo Bay complement good salads, with the rocket, pear and parmesan salad bringing a touch of Italy to historic Russell. If you’re wondering about the name, Hōne is Māori for John.

Ever since American Western author and ardent fisherman Zane Grey visited the Bay of Islands in the 1920s – and wrote about his experiences in Tales of the Angler’s Eldorado, New Zealand – big-game fishing has been popular in the area. Marlin, kingfish and tuna are the biggest prizes in the Bay’s deepest waters, but there are also more accessible experiences seeking out inshore species like snapper, grouper and trevally. Look forward to a great day out with laidback fishing guides who definitely know the best spots to cast a line.

Dotted with around 150 islands, the best way to see the area is a flight in either a fixed-wing plane or helicopter with Salt Air. Helicopter options include landing on Motu Kōkako, the site of the famous Hole in the Rock, where a representative of the local Māori iwi (tribe) welcomes visitors with a cultural blessing. Wine-tasting tours by helicopter include visits to three vineyards scattered around Northland, and there’s also the option of a flight to Cape Reinga, the spectacular and spiritual northern tip of New Zealand.

The Bay of Islands’ most sophisticated dining experience is this stylish bistro with ocean views in Paihia. Despite the name, Terra’s seasonal menu is largely focused on seafood with highlights including local Orongo Bay oysters with lemon and Jerez sherry, or stingray with a subtle Asian tinge of tamarind. Duck or lamb with Middle Eastern flavours do both feature on a concise array of main dishes, and a postprandial cheese board offers aged edam and blue options from Mahoe Farmhouse Cheese in nearby Kerikeri.

Immerse yourself in the Bay of Islands with Luxury Escapes’ hand-picked Experiences. We’ve curated a selection of cultural activities, adrenaline thrills, food adventures and luxury add-ons to help you discover your destination. These Experiences are bookable when you purchase your next escape. Simply select your travel dates and number of travellers for any package, and opt to tailor your escape by selecting the available Experiences.